Beta flash
Leading a climb with no falling or dogging,
but with a piece of previous
knowledge hints on how to do those crux moves.
Even seeing someone do
the climb already classifies as 'previous
knowledge'.
(d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash
Big wall
Rock climb that is so long and sustained that
a normal ascent lasts several
days.
(d) Big Wall, (f) Voie longue, (f-c) Grand
mur, (e) Gran Pared, (s)
Storöägg / Bigwall
Biner
Short for Karabiner
(d) Kara, (f) Mousquif, (e) Mosquete / Mosquetón,
(s) Karbin
Birdbeak
A tiny hooked piton manufactured by A5. It
is similar to the old Chouinard
"Crack'n up", except that it only has a single
side and that it is intended to
be hammered in if necessary.
Bivouac
Or short, bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping
place in the middle of a route.
(d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i) Bivacco,
(e) Bivac, (s) Bivack, (pl)
Biwak
Black ice
Old ice that was exposed to extremely cold
temperatures, scree, and
snowfall. Usually found deep in shady couloirs,
or on steep north faces.
Very hard and dense ice that is difficult
to climb.
Blast, to
To begin a big wall, after the line fixing
is done. "We're gonna blast on
Tuesday morning after we get the first three
pitches fixed".
Bleauser
French term. Going to boulder at 'Bleau (short
for Fontainebleau, the site
of some excellent bouldering near Paris)
Blue ice
Very dense ice with a watery hue and few air
bubbles.
Bolt
(d) Haken, (f) Spit, (i) Spit, (e) Spits/Bolt,
(s) Bult, (pl) Spit
Bolt, expansion
(d) Bohrhaken, (f) Cheville à expansion,
(nl) Boorhaak, (i) Caviglie da
espansione, (e) Piton de expansion, parabolt,
(s) Borrbult
Bomber
Used to indicate that something is exceptionally
solid, e.g. an anchor, a
hold. See also bombproof.
(e) Firme, (s) Kanon
Bombproof
The illusion that an anchor is infallible
(d) Bomben sicher, (f) béton (i) A
prova di bomba, (e) A prueba de
bomba, (s) Bombsäker
Bong
An almost extinct species of extra wide pitons.
Now, large chocks are
usually used instead.
(f) "Bonne Grimpe !"
A greeting to climbers when they start the
climb.
(e) "¡Buena suerte!"
Boulder, to
Climbing unroped on boulders or at the foot
of climbs to a height where it
is still safe to jump off.
(d) Bouldern (f) Faire du bloc, (nl) Boulderen,
(i) Arrampicare su masso,
(e) Boulder / Cascarear
Bounce
To crater from an extreme height. Usually
lethal.
(d) Todessturz
Bowline
Sailing knot (not to be used for climbing,
unless backed up with a second
knot)
(d) Bulinknoten/Palstek, (f) Noeud de chaise,
(nl) Paalsteek, (i) (Nodo)
bulino, (e) Bulín, (s) Pålstek
Brain bucket
Aka helmet. That all important hard shelled
thing that covers our
(second?) most valuable asset.
Bucket
A large hold (Aka "jug", esp. in UK)
(d) Henkel, (f) Bac/baquet, (nl) bak, (i)
Fibbia / Vasca, (e) Asa / gasa, (s)
Brevlåda
Buildering
To climb buildings
(d) Fassadenklettern, (f-c) Escalade de ville,
(nl) Geveltoerisme, (e)
Escalada urbana, (s) Fasadklättring
Butterfly knot
Interesting but rarely used climbing knot.
(f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du Micky
??, (e) Nudo de mariposa
Buttress
The part of the mountain or rock that stands
in front of the main
mountainface.
(d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f) Pillier, (i) Pilastro,
(e) Espolón, (s) Pelare
Cam
Generic reference to the family of spring
loaded camming devices
(SLCD) such as friends, camalots, aliens,
TCUs, etc. Also refered to as
springs
(e) Levas
Campus
A dyno executed using the arms only. Comes
from the campus board
where the people who do this move get the
muscle to do it.
(d) Frei hängend
Campus board
A wooden training board with finger ledges
that is used for training dynos
and finger power.
(d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planche d'entraînement,
(e) Tabla de entrenamiento
Cat, dead
Contact Greg Opland for this one...
(d) Tote Katze, (f) Chat mort, (nl) Dode kat,
(i) Gatto morte, (lat) Felis
oplandis, (s) Död katt, (pl) Zdechly
kot
Chalk
Magic powder that makes the hands stick to
even the smoothest rock.
(d) Chalk/Magnesia, (f) Magnésie, (nl)
Magnesiumpoeder, (i) Magnesia,
(e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl) Magnezja
Cheese grater, to
To slide down a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and face.
Chest harness
Bra-like looking harness (to be used with
waist harness)
(d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais, (nl) Borstgordel,
(i) Cinghia pettorale, (e)
Arnés de pecho, (s) Bröstsele,
(pl) upzraz piersiowa
Chickenhead
Sometimes phallic shaped, protruding lumps
that make excellent hand or
footholds on granite, etc.
(d) Zacke / Felsköpfel, (f-c) Banane,
(e) Chile / cuerno
Chimney
A wide crack that accomodates (most of) the
body of the climber.
(d)Kamin, (f) Cheminée, (nl) Schoorsteen,
(i) Camino, (e) Chimenea, (s)
Kamin, (pl) Komin
Chimney, to
A climbing technique used to conquer chimneys.
Usually requires the use
of the back and feet, arms, head and other
body parts.
Chipped hold
A hold created with a hamer and chisel by
a moron uncapable of doing the
climb as it is.
(d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise taillée,
(i) Presa scavata, (s) Chippade
grepp
Chock
Generic reference to the family of passive
wired protection devices, also
called nuts, stoppers, wires, and rocks.
(e) Nueces
Chockstone
A stone wedged between a crack, a chimney,
etc.
(s) Kilsten
Chute
A very steep gully. The word chute is french
for fall and refers to the
rockfall that is very common in a chute.
Class
A number designating the overal technical
level of a route. The first
number in the YDS designates the class of
the climb. Here's the different
classes...
(e) Clase
Clean
Climbing without falling or dogging.
(f) Enchaicirc;ner (une voie), (e) Escalada
limpia
Clean
Aid climbing without hammering.
(e) Limpiar
Clean, to
To remove the pro from a route. Usually done
by the follower.
(d) Abbauen / Ausraümen, (pl) Czyste
Cliff
A vertical piece of rock good for climbing
(see also Crag).
(d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl) Rots, (i) Falesia,
(e) Risco, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala
Cliffhanger
Not just a silly film with Wolfgang Güllich
and Ron Kauk, but also the
name for a small hooking device used to aid
climb up small ledges and
pockets.
Climb, to
(d) Klettern, (f) Grimper, (nl) Klimmen, (i)
Arrampicare/scalare, (e)
Escalar, (s) Klättra, (pl) Wspinac sie
Climb, a
(d) Kletterei, (f) Escalade, (nl) Klim, (i)
Arrampicata , (e) Escalada, (s)
Led/Tur
"Climbing"
What the climber shouts after the belayer
screams "Belay on".
(d) "Komme", (f) "Parti", (nl) "Ik kom", (i)
"parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy", (s)
"Jag klättrar", (pl) "Ide"
Climbing gym
The second best thing to real rock (Aka "wall"
in the UK).
(d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade / Salle
d'escalade, (nl)
Klimzaal/Klimhal, (i) Palestra, (e) Muro artificial
de escalada, (s)
Inomhusvägg
Climbing shoes
Shoes made of sticky rubber that would have
fit you comfortable when
you were ten.
(d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons d'escalade,
(nl) Klimschoenen, (i) Scarpe
da roccia / scarpette / pedule, (e) Botas
de escala / tenis de escalada,
(e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de escalada,
(s) Klätterskor, (pl) Pantofle
/ buty wspinaczkowe
"Climb when ready"
The British equivalent of "Belay on".
(e) "Cuando estés listo", (e-argentina)
"veni"
Clip, to
The reassuring action of putting the rope
through a karabiner (that is
attached to a piece of pro).
(d) Einhängen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl)
wpiac sie
Clove hitch
A useful, easily adjustable climbing knot
usually used to tie the rope into a
karibiner.
(d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan, (i) Nodo
barcaiolo, (e) Cola de
cochino, (s) Dubbelt halvslag
Col
A steep, high mountain pass.
(f) Col
Cord
Thin static rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm)
(d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette, (nl) Prusiktouw,
(i) Cordino, (e) Cordino /
cordeleta, (s) Repsnöre
Corner
Inside corner (see dihedral) or outside corner.
(f) Diedre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina, (s) Hörn
Corn snow
Unconsolidated granular snow that has gone
through a short
freeze-and-thaw process. This type of snow
is prevalent throughout the
High Sierra in April and May.
Couloir
A steep gully which may have snow or ice.
(f) Couloir
Crack, in rock
A gap or fissure in the rock varying in width
from nail to bodywidth.
(d) Riß, (f) Fissure, (nl) (Rots)-spleet,
(i) Fessura, (e) Grieta, (s) Spricka,
(pl) Rysa
Crag
Name for a (small) climbing area.
(d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i) Falesia,
(s) Klippa, (pl) Skala
Crampons
Very pointy footware use to walk glaciers
or climb ice.
(d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl) Stijgijzers,
(i) Ramponi, (e) Crampones,
(s) Stegjärn
Crank, to
To pull on a hold as hard as you can, and
then some.
(d) Durchziehen
Crater, to
To fall and hit the ground, as in "I almost
cratered".
(f) Se gaufrer/se vautrer/se planter/dévisser,
(s) Kratra, (pl) glebowac
Crest
The very top of a ridge or arete.
Crevasse
A crack in the surface of a glacier.
(d) (Gletscher-)spalte, (f) Crevasse, (nl)
(Gletscher-)spleet, (i) Crepaccio,
(e) Grieta, (s) Glaciärspricka, (pl)
szczelina
Crimper
A very small hold that accepts only the finger
tips.
(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f) Gratton, (i) Tacca,
(e) Grieta de dedos
Crux
The hard bit.
(d) Crux/Schlueßelstelle, (f) Le pas/Crux,
(nl) Sleutelpassage, (i) Passo
chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux
Daisy chain
A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous loops,
used as an adjustable sling in
aid climbing.
Deadpoint
A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed
at the dead point of the
move.
(d) Greifen im toten Punkt
Deck
The usually unfriendly surface that wellcomes
you at the end of a
grounder.
Descender
Device used for rappeling.
(d) Abseiler, (f) Descendeur, (i) Discensore,
(e) Descensor, (s)
Firningsbroms
Dihedral
Inside corner (Aka "open book").
(d)Verschneidung, (f) Dièdre, (nl)
Versnijding/hoek, (i) Diedro, (e) Diedro,
(s) (Inner-) hörn / Dieder
"Dirt me"
US slang which means as much as 'Lower me'.
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach"
Dog (to dog a move)
Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a
certain move is made (the usual
mode of ascent...).
(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo
Double fisherman's knot
Solid knot used to tie two ropes or pieces
of webbing together (Aka
grapevine knot).
(d) Doppelter Spierenstich, (f) Double noeud
de pêcheur, (nl) Dubbele
visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto doppio/nodo
doppio inglese, (e) Nudo de
pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop
Double rope
Same as a half rope. Also the technique using
two half ropes.
(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde à double,
(i) Corda doppia, (e) Cuerda doble, (s)
Dubbelrep
Downclimbing
Descending the difficult way.
(d) Abklettern, (f) Désescalader, (nl)
Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare /
Arrampicare in discesa, (e) Destrepar / Desescalar,
(s) Nedetklättring
Dude
Generic name for a climber (in the US).
Dynamic belay
A belay method in which some rope is allowed
to slip during severe falls.
A dynamic belay can severely reduce the impact
force from a serious fall,
but can also severely kill you if not done
properly.
(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique,
(i) Sicura dinamica /
assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinámico,
(s) Dynamisk säkring
Dyno
Dynamic movement towards a distant hold.
(d) Dynamo, (f) Jeté, (nl) Dynamo,
(i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento dinámico,
(s) Dynamiskt move
EB
The first sport climbing shoes
Edge
A sharp edge on a rock face.
(d) Kante, (f) Graton, (i) Spigolo / lama,
(e) Orilla, (s) Kant, (pl) Kant
Edging
Foot technique where one uses the edge of
the climbing shoe to stand on
small footholds. The opposite of smearing.
(d) Kanten, (f) Gratonner, (e) cantear
Elvis, to
To have a sewing maching leg. Named after
"Elvis, the King", who
suffered from this this problem when singing
before a crowd of screaming
women.
(d) Nähmaschine, (e) motoneta, (pl) telegrafowac
Epic
The story of a well planned climb that turned
into a grueling adventure that
turned out well in the end. As these stories
are told over and over again -
and they always are - the details get stretched
to supernatural proportions
for dramatic effect.
(d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopée (e)
Historia épica
Etrier
(Pronounce with a french accent). Webbing
ladder used for aid climbing.
Also known as 'aider'.
(d) Leiter, (f) Étrier, (nl) Ladder,
(i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar
Face climbing
Not crack climbing.
(d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern, (nl) Wandklimmen,
(f) Grimper en
dalle, (i) Arrampicata su parete/Arrampicata
in placca, (e) Escalada
exterior, (s) Väggklättring, (pl)
wspinaczka po plycie
Fall, to
A dynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo
rappel). Note that it is never the
fall that kills, it's the landing.
(d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre un plomb / Voler
/ Tomber, (nl) Vallen, (i)
Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s) Ramla,
Falla, (pl) odpasc
"Falling"
Yelled when a climber is (about to) fall.
(d) "Ich stürze", (f) "Sec" (eqv. to
'up rope'), (nl) "Ik val", (i) "Volo", (e)
"Caigo"
Fall factor
The length of the fall divided by the amount
of rope paid out.
(d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteur de chute, (i)
Fattore di caduta, (e) Factor de
caída, (s) Fallfaktor
FecoFile
A PVC tube used to store solid human waste
on big walls. Aka the Shit
Tube.
Fifi hook
An open hook used to allow easy clipping during
aid climbing. Usually
found on aiders, daisy chains, etc.
(d) Fifihaken, (f) Crochet goutte d'eau ?,
(i) Gancio fiffi, (e) Fifí, (s)
Fiffikrok
Figure 8
Metal rappelling/belaying device shaped like
an 8.
(d) Achter/Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur en
huit (Huit), (nl) Acht, (i) L'otto
(il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Åtta,
(pl) Osemka
Figure of eight
Very popular and solid tie-in knot.
(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud en huit (Huit),
(nl) Acht/achtknoop, (i) Nodo a
otto / Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de ocho,
(s) Åttaknut, (pl) Osemka
Fingerlock
Masochistic technique to twist and wedge the
fingers into a crack.
(d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f) Verrou
(de doigt), (nl)
Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di dita, (e)
Encuñadura de dedos, (s)
Fingerjam
Firn
Old, well consolidated snow. Often a left-over
from the previous season.
Closer to ice than snow in density, it may
require the use of crampons.
Fisherman
Simple knot to tie two ropes together. The
double fisherman knot,
however, is more popular.
(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeud de pêcheur,
(nl) Visserssteek, (i) Nodo a
contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s) Fiskarknop
Flash
To lead a climb with no falls or dogging and
with no previous attempts on
the climb. Two variations exist: the onsight
flash (where the climber has
never seen the climb before) and the beta
flash (where the climber has
studied the climb before or has seen someone
do the climb). See there.
(f) Enchaâner en tête
Flake
A thin bit of rock that is detached from the
main face.
(d) Schuppe, (f) Écaille, (i) Scaglia,
(e) Laja, (s) flak, (pl) Pletwa
Flared
A crack or chimney with sides that are not
parallel, but instead form two
converging planes of rock.
Following
Not leading a climb.
(d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second / Grimper
en moulinette, (nl)
Naklimmen, (i) Seguire (andare da secondo),
(e) Segundear / escalar de
segundo, (s) Följa
Free climbing
Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and
natural holds. Ropes and pro
are only used for protection of the climber
and not for progression.
(d) Frei klettern, (f) Escalade libre, (nl)
Vrijklimmen, (i)
Scalata/arrampicata libera, (e) Escalada libre,
(s) Friklättring
Free solo
Free climbing while using no ropes for protection.
You fall - you die.
(d)Free solo klettern, (f) Solo, (nl) Solo,
(i) Arrampicata in solitaria, (e)
Escalada solitaria / Superlibre, (s) Frisolo
Friend
Trade name for the original camming devices,
now also available as
Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes,
etc.
Gate
The part of the karibiner that opens.
(d) Schnapper, (f) Doigt, (nl) Snapper, (i)
Leva, (e) Pestillo, (e-argentina)
leva, (s) Grind
Glacier
A slowly moving permanent mass of ice.
(d) Gletscher, (f) Glacier, (nl) Gletscher,
(i) Ghiacciaio, (e) Glaciar, (s)
Glaciär
"Got me?"
A wake up call for the belayer, used to warn
her that you are about to
some weight on the rope.
Grade
A number denoting the seriousness of a route
(not to be confused with the
rating of climb, which describes the technical
difficulty). In Britain,
however, the word grade means both grade and
rating. Look here for the
different grades...
(d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f) Engagement,
(e) Grado
Grease, to
Not being able to hold on to a particularly
slick hold, due to the presence of
sweat, lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in
overused crags
Grounder
A fall where the kinetic energy is not absorbed
by the rope and pro, but
rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt badly.
(d) Bodensturz
Grigri
Nifty but somewhat controversial belaying
device made by Petzl.
Gripped
Paralyzed with fear and utterly confused.
Gully
A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.
HACE
High Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the
brain as a result of high
altitude exposure. Few people live to tell
what it is like.
Half rope
A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used
together with a second rope
when leading a climb.
(d) Halbseil, (f) Corde de rappel, (nl) Half
touw, (i) Mezza corda, (e)
Media cuerda, (s) Halvrep
Handjam
Slightly masochistic technique where the hand
is wedged into a crack.
(d) Handklemmer, (f) Verrou (de main), (nl)
Handklem, (i) Incastro di
mani, (e) Encuñadura de mano / -de
palmas, (e-argentina) Empotrar la
mano
Handle
Big banana-shaped hold often found in indoor
gyms. Great for waving
hello to admiring bystanders. It may sound
bizarre, but I've never seen one
of those outdoors...
(d) Henkel, (nl) Handvat
Hangdog, to
See Dog.
HAPE
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Liquid in the
lungs as a result of high
altitude exposure. Pretty serious condition
that can quickly lead to HACE
if a descent to lower altitudes is not made
immediately. See also HACE.
Harness
Piece of clothing that identifies you as a
climber. The coolness factor can
be significantly enhanced by hanging things
from the harness that go cling.
(d) Klettergurt, (f) Baudrier/Baudard, (f-c)
Baudrier/Cuissard, (nl)
Klimgordel, (i) Imbragatura, (e) Arnés,
(s) Klättersele, (pl) Uprzaz
Haul bag
Large and robust bag used to haul food, water,
climbing gear, sleeping bag,
television, satelite dish, and other essential
equipment that is required, up a
big wall. Also know as "the pig".
(d) Materialsack / Nachziehsack, (f) Sac,
(i) Sacco da recupero, (e)
Petate / Costal de escalada, (s) Hissack
Headwall
Where the face of a mountain steepens dramatically.
"Help"
The vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute.
In far away countries, try
S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean anything but is
understood by most.
(d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl) "Help",
(i) "Aiuto", (e) socorro/ayuda, (s)
"Hjälp"
Helmet
Solid plastic device that can sometimes protect
the head from falling
stones or impact (Aka a brainbucket).
(d) Helm, (f) Casque, (nl) Helm, (i) Casco,
(e) Casco, (s) Hjälm
Hex
Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an
excentric hexadiagonal shape.
Works for wedging (as a nut) but also for
camming.
Hueco
A beautifully shaped pocket with a positive
lip named after these
increabible features found at the Hueco Tanks
bouldering area in Texas.
HMS
Karibiner with one wide side used for belaying
with a munter hitch (aka
pearabiner). From the German term for munter
hitch belay:
'Halbmastwurfsicherung'.
(d) HMS, (i) Moschettone a pera, (s) HMS-knut
Hold
Anything that can be held on to.
(d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl) Greep, (i) Appiglio
/ Presa, (e) Presa / agarre,
(e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp, (pl) Chwyt
Horn
Spike of rock that can be for a great hold
or not so great protection. The
same as a chickenhead.
Hurtin unit
That member of the climbing team that is suffering
from severe exposure
to alcoholic beverages the night before.
Ice axe
Device used for ice climbing, glacier crossing,
or scaring away burglars.
(d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet, (nl)
IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza, (e) Piolet, (s)
Isyxa
Ice screw
A protection device for ice climbing. Looks
like a large bolt that can be
screwed in hard ice.
(d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche à glace,
(i) Vite da ghiaccio, (e) Tornillo para
hielo, (s) Isskruv
Italian hitch
Munter hitch knot or HMS knot
Jam, to
Wedging body parts in a crack.
(d) Klemmen, (f) Faire un verrou / Faire un
coincement / Coincer, (i)
Incastrarsi, (e) Encuñar, (e-argentina)
Empotrar, (s) Jamma, (pl) Klinowac
Jug
Very large hold (short for jug handle) (Aka
"bucket" in the US).
(d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignée, (nl)
bak, (i) Vasca / Fibbia, (e-argentina)
Manija, (s) Brevlåda, (pl) Klama
Jugs
Big wall lingo for Jumars or any other type
of ascenders.
Jug, to
To jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
Jumar
A type of rope ascending device.
Jumar, to
To ascend a rope using ascenders.
(d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e) Jumarear,
(s) Jumarera
Karabiner
Metal connecting device (Aka "biner").
(d) Karabiner, (f) Mousqueton, (nl) Karabiner/mousqueton,
(i)
Moschettone, (e) Mosquetón / Mosquete,
(s) Karbin / Karbinhake, (pl)
Karabinek
Kernmantle rope
Modern climbing rope consisting of bundles
of continuous nylon filaments
(Kern) surrounded by a braided protective
sheath (Mantle).
(d) Kernmantelseil
Knotted cord
Piece of cord with a knot tied into the end
that is used for protection
(pretty much like a nut). The traditional
method of protecting climbs, and
still used in the Elbsandsteingebirge in Eastern
Germany.
(d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Corde nouée,
(i) Cordino annodato
Layback/Lieback
Somewhat clumsy looking climbing technique
where hands and feet work
in opposition.
(d) Piazen/hangeln, (f) Dulfer/opposition,
(i) Dulfer (Opposizione), (e)
Dülfer, (s) Layback
Leader
Person who leads a climb.
(d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de cordée),
(nl) Voorklimmer, (i) Primo, (e)
Primero / puntero, (s) Försteman, (pl)
Prowadzacy
Lead, to
To ascend a climb from the bottom up, placing
protection (or clipping
protection) as you go.
(d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimper en tête,
(nl) Voorklimmen, (i) Andare da
capocardata, andare da primo, (e) Puntear
/ guiar, (s) Leda, (pl)
Prowadzic
Ledge
Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic).
(d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large), (f) Réglette/vire
("vire" is somewhere
between a microledge and a party ledge), (nl)
Rand(je), (i) Cengia, (e)
Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) Polka
Limestone
Type of rock found in abundance in southern
France (usually white and
full of pockets and holds).
(d) Kalkstein, (f) Calcaire, (nl) Kalksteen,
(i) Calcare, (e) Roca calcárea,
(s) Kalksten, (pl) Wapein
Locking biner
Karabiner that can be locked.
(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber, (f) Mousqueton
à vis, (nl)
Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a ghiera,
(e) Mosquetón de seguro, (s)
Låskarbin / Skruvkarbin
Lock-off
To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while
using the other arm to
reach up for the next hold or to place or
clip protection. Lockoffs on small
holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
(d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer, (nl)
Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio, (e)
Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av
Lowering
To descend something or somebody.
(d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en moullinette,
(nl) Zakken/naar beneden
laten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar / descender a
alguien, (s) Fira ner
Manky
Term used to describe a fixed bolt that looks
like it was placed before the
last ice age. Use these bolts at your own
discretion
(d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri/clou rouillé
Mantle
Difficult balancing move useful to get up
on ledges.
(d) (Durch)-stützbewegung, (f) Rétablissement,
(i) Ristabilimento, (s)
Mantla
Mixed climbing
Climbing with a combination of different methods
of ascent. e.g mixed
free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice
climbing, etc.
Moat
The gap between snow and ice on a rock wall.
Has posed problems ever
since the middle ages.
Mountain rescue
The people who put their life on the line
when you screw up badly.
(d) Bergrettung, (f) Secours en montagne,
(i) Soccorso alpino, (e) Rescate
de montaña, (s) Bergräddning
Munge
The dirt and vegetation that can sometimes
be found in cracks.
Multi pitch climb
Climb that consists of more than a single
pitch.
(d) Mehrseillaengentour,(f) Voie de plusieurs
longeurs, (nl) Klim van
meerdere touwlengtes, (i) Via da piu' tiri,
(e) Ruta de varios largos, (s) Tur
med flera replängder(?), (pl) Droga kilku
wyciagowa
Munter hitch
Knot used for belaying (Aka italian hitch
or friction hitch). The Germans
love this knot (see HMS).
(d) Halbmastwurf, (f) Demi-cabestan, (nl)
Halve mastworp, (i) Mezzo
barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudo dinamico, (s)
Munterknut
Nailing
An ancient term used to describe direct-aid
climbing with pitons.
Needle
Rock with a characteristic pointed shape.
Also known as pinnacle, aiguille,
gendarme, etc.
(d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille / Gendarme,
(i) Guglia / Pinnacolo, (e)
Aguja, (s) Pinnakel
Névé
Consolidated granular snow formed by repeated
freeze-and-thaw cycles.
Also used to indicate permanent snowfields.
(f) Névé
Notch
A small col.
Nut
Metal wedge used for protection in cracks.
(d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut , (i)
Dado, (e) Nuez, (s) Kil, (pl)
Kosc
Nut tool
Piece of metal that can be used to remove
stuck nuts or cams
(d) Keilenentferner, (f) Décoinceur/sardine,
(i) Cavadadi, (e) Sacanueces,
(s) Kilpetare
"Off Belay"
Yelled when the climber no longer requires
a belay (e.g. because she/he
has reached a stance). Once the belayer hears
"off belay", he/she
removes the rope from the belay device and
yells "belay off". In UK,
Australia and New Zealand: "Safe".
(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais" or
"Vâché", (nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" /
"Molla", (e) "Libre", (e-argentina) "autoasegurado",
(s) "Lägg av" / "Ta
hem"
Off width
A climb too wide to jam, too small to chimney.
And then I've heard of
people who actually like this kind of climbing.
(d) Schulterriß, (e) Off width
"On Belay ???"
Query to verify if the belayer is ready to
secure the climber (US only).
(d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me prends
???", (i) "Sei pronto ???", (e)
"?Subo?" / "?estás listo?", (s) "Sakring
klar ???"
On-sight flash
Leading a climb with no falls and no dogging
and without any prior
attempts, watching someone do it or beta on
how to do the moves.
(f) Enchaîner en tête á
vue, (i) A vista, (e) A vista
Open book
Same as a dihedral or inside corner. Two panes
of rock join in an acute or
obtuse corner that faces left or right.
Outside corner
Also known as pillar or arete.
(d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro
Overhand knot
A simple (but solid) knot in a double rope.
(d) Sackstich, (i) Nodo delle guide, (e) Nudo
simple, (s) överhandsknut
Overhand loop
The simplest type of knot possible.
(d) Kreuzschlag, (f) Queue de vache, (e) Gasa
Overhang
Rock (or ice) that is "more than vertical".
(d) Ueberhang, (f) Surplomb(=strong overhang)
or dévers (=slight
overhang), (nl) overhang, (i) Strapiombo,
(e) Desplome / Extraplomo, (s)
Överhäng, (pl) Przewieszenie
Pass
The lowest passage between two mountains.
The french - but not just the
french - know this as a col. The mathematicians
would call this the saddle
point.
(d) Pass, (f) Col, (i) Sella / Colle / Passo
/ Valico, (e) Collado / puerto, (s)
Pass
Party ledge
A somewhat larger ledge used to rest (and
party !) during a particularly
hard or long climb. Sometimes used to refer
to the belay station on a
multipitch climb.
(f) Terrasse ("vire" is a somewhat narrower
ledge), (i) Terrazza, (nl)
Plateau, (e) Repisa
Pendulum
A swing on the rope, either intentional to
gain a distant anchor on big wall
climbs or unintentional when falling during
a traverse with not enough pro
in place.
(d) Pendeln / Pendelquergang, (f) Pendule,
(i) (Traversata a) pendolo, (e)
Péndulo, (s) Pendeltravers / Pendla
Pig
The haul bag.
(d) Sau
Pillar
Outside corner
(d) Pfeiler, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i)
Pilastro, (e) Pilar, (s) Pelare
Pink point
To red-point a climb where the pro and runners
have been pre-placed.
(d) Rotpunkt mit eingehängte Schlingen
(Rotkreuz ???)
Pitch
A section of climb between two belays and
no longer than the length of
one rope (this used to mean 45m, nowadays
pitches can also be 50 or
even 60m long -- check your topo).
(d) Seillaenge, (f) Longueur, (nl) Touwlengte,
(i) Tiro, (e) Largo (de
cuerda), (s) Replängd, (pl) Wyciag
Piton
Metal spike hammered into a crack (has come
in disuse for all but some
special applications) (Aka "peg" in the UK).
(d) Haken, (f) Piton, (nl) (Mep)haak, (i)
Chiodo, (e) Pitón / clavo
Pocket
A hold formed by a (small) depression in the
rock.
(d) Loch/Fingerloch, (nl) Gat/vingergat, (i)
Buca da dito, (s) Ficka, (pl)
Dziurka
Portaledge
A hanging tent with built in bed used on big
walls (and big trees).
Pro, Protection
Anchors placed during the climb to protect
the leader. Beware: even
properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy
or the transmission of
STDs.
(d) Sicherungsmittel, (f) Protection, (nl)
Zekering, (i) Protezione, (e)
Protección / anclaje, (s) Säkring
Prusik
The sliding knot or the method to ascend a
rope (named after its inventer
Dr. Karl Prusik).
(d) Prusik, (nl) Prusik, (i) Prusik, (e) Prusik,
(s) Prusik
Pumped
The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers
are familiar with the
forearm pump: too much finger work causes
the forearms to swell and the
strength to disappear. With a serious forearm
pump, even holding a glass
of beer can become a serious challenge.
(d) Dicke arme (or any other body part), (f)
Avoir les bouteilles/Daubé,
(nl) Verzuurd, (i) Acciaiato, (s) Pumpad
Quickdraw, quick
Short sling with karabiners on either side.
(d) Expreßschlinge, (f) Dégaine,
(nl) setje, (i) Rinvio / Preparato / sveltina,
(e) cintas express, (s) Expresslinga / Kortslinga,
(pl) Expres
Rack
The climbing gear carried during an ascent.
(d) Materialsortiment, (f) Matériel
/ matos, (i) Equipaggiomento /
Assortimento di materiale, (e) Bandolera /
bandola, (s) Racka / Utrustning,
(pl) Spej
Rad
Not trad. Slang for sport climbing.
Rally, to
To climb exceptionally well, especially on
normally difficult climbs.
Ramp
An ascending ledge
Rappel, to
Also: to rap. Descending by sliding down a
rope. Known in Britain (and
Germany) as abseiling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl)
Afdalen/abseilen (i) Calare (in
corda doppia), (e) Rapelear, (s) Fira
Rating
A number denoting the technical difficulty
of the climb. See here for more
on ratings and grades.
(d) Schwierigkeitsgrat, (f) Cotation, (e)
Escala de dificultad
Redpoint
To lead a climb without falling or dogging
after a number of attempts. This
is different from onsight, where the climb
is lead without falling or dogging
on its first attempt.
(d) Rotpunkt, (f) Enchaîner, (i) Arrampicare
in libera, (pl) RP
Resin
An alternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree
resin" to use its full name) is
made from the yucky stuff that sticks to your
hands when you touch a
pine tree. Because resin is mostly colorless,
it is preferred to chalk in some
areas. But caution: Don't let the color fool
you. Resin can do permanent
damage to the rock and in fact is not allowed
anywhere in the US for that
reason. reason in the US.
(d) Pof, (f) Pof, (i) Resina, (e) Resina,
(s) Harts
Rib
A slender buttress. Something between a buttress
and an outside corner.
Ridge
The high divide extending out from a peak.
Ring
A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented
in the rock as a bolt. Rings
are very common in Germany and France and
are excellent for rappelling
and hanging belays.
(d) Ring, (f) Scellement, (nl) Ring, (i) Anello
da calata, (s) Ringbult, (pl)
Ring
"Rock"
Scream let out to warn people down below that
a piece of rock has been
overcome by gravity. The loudness, number
of repitions, and/or panic in
voice with which this word is uttered is often
an indication of the
seriousness of the rock. In the UK, you're
more likely to hear "Below",
beware!
(d) "Stein", (f) "Pierre" / "Caillou", (i)
"Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten"
Roof
Seriously overhanging part in a climb (more
or less horizontal).
(d) Dach, (f) Toit/Plafond, (nl) Dak, (i)
Tetto, (e) Techo, (s) tak, (pl) Dach
Rope
Long and round nylon fabrication. Climbing
ropes are generally between
10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the exception
of "half ropes" which are
between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter).
(d) Seil, (f) Corde, (nl) Touw, (i) Corda,
(e) Cuerda, (s) Rep
"Rope"
Should be yelled when a rope is about to be
thrown to the base of the crag
(though most of the time it seems like "rope"
is shouted about 1-2 seconds
after the rope is thrown). In the UK, shout
"Rope below".
(d) "Seil", (f) "Corde", (nl) "Touw", (i)
"Corda", (e) "Cuerda", (e-argentina)
"va cuerda", (s) "Rep", (pl) "Uwaga lina"
Route
A certain path up a rock or mountain.
(d) Tour, (f) Voie, (nl) Route, (i) Via, (e)
Ruta, (s) Led, (pl) Droga
Runner
A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied
(Aka sling).
(d) Schlinge, (f) Sangle, (i) Anello, (e)
Anilla, (s) Slinga, (pl) Talma ?
Runner
A runner threaded or looped around chockstones,
flakes, horns or
chickenheads for protection.
(d) Zackenschlinge
Runout
Distance between two elements of pro. A route
is "runout" when the
distance between those two elements of pro
becomes uncomfortably long.
(d) Abstand zwischen 2 Sicherungspunkten, (f)
(Une voie est) Engagée,
(i) Via protetta lunga, (e) Ruta poco protegida
Saddle
A high pass that looks somewhat like the horsewear.
Not quite as steep as
a col.
"Safe"
The British equivalent of "Off Belay".
(d) "Stand", (f) "Relais" / "Vâché",
(nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e)
"Libre", (s) "Lägg av"
Scrambling
Easy climbing, usually unroped.
(d) Kraxeln, (f) Randonner, (e) Trepar, (s)
Lätt Klättring
Screamer
A very, very long fall.
(f) Méga-plomb, (i) Mina / Randa
Screamer
Special piece of equipment meant to reduce
the impact of a screamer (the
fall) on the belay system.
(i) Dissipatore
Scree
Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope
below a cliff. With every
step, scree slides under your feet.
Second
The climber who follows the leader. See also
following.
(d) Nachsteiger, (i) Secondo, (e) Segundo
Send, to
To climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send
this route, dude!"
Sewing-machine leg or arm
A leg (or arm) under tension that suddenly
starts jerking up and down like
a sewing machine. Stretch the muscle, take
a deep breath, and don't think
of falling... (see also: to Elvis).
(d) Nähmaschine, (s) Symaskin, (pl) Telegraf
Sharp end
The end of the rope to which the leader is
attached.
SH** !
Often heard during a fall... (Well educated
climbers in the UK sometimes
say "sugar" - but only if they're not in too
much trouble).
(d) Scheisse !, (f) Merde!, (f-c) "Chite!",
(nl) Shit!, (i) "Merda!", (e)
Mierda!, (s) Djävlar!, (pl) Cholera /
Kurcze / Kurde
Short roping
Technique where both climbers are tied close
together into the middle of
the rope. The rest of the rope is then carried
over the shoulders in a coil.
Frequently used for simul-climbing. The term
(and technique?) is used
frequently in the Canadian Rockies.
Short roping
Belaying technique where the belayer keeps
the leader under tension in an
attempt reduce the length of a fall. Tony
Bubb will gladly give you an
exposé on the dangers of this technique.
Side pull
A hand hold that needs to be held with a horizontal
(sideways) pull.
(d) Piaz-Griff / Seitgriff, (f) Prise verticale,
(i) Maniglia rovescia, (s)
Sidotag / Sidogrepp, (pl) Odciag
Sierra wave
A lenticular cloud (quite rare in the Alps).
Slab
Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite
vertical piece of rock.
(d) Platte, (f) Dalle, (nl) Plaat, (i) Lastra
/ Lastrone / Placca, (e) Laja, (s)
Sva / Platta, (pl) pologa plyta
"Slack"
Yelled when the climber needs more rope (e.g.
to clip into protection).
(d) "Seil", (f) "Mou", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda"
("Lasco"), (e) "Cuerda", (s)
"Slacka", (pl) "Luz"
Slingshot
A toprope setup where the belayer belays on
the ground (where the
climber starts climbing) and the rope is pre-clipped
through the anchor at
the top of the climb.
Sloper
Pathetic downward slanting hold. (Usually
look like buckets from below.)
(d) (Abschüssiger) Aufleger, (f) Prise
fuyante, (i) Appiglio spiovente
Smearing
Foot technique where a big part of the climbing
shoe is used to generate
as much friction as possible. The opposite
of edging.
(d) Auf reibung stehen, (f) Adhérence,
(i) Aderenza, (e) Fricción, (s)
Smeara
Soloing
Climbing alone, though not necessarily without
the protection of a rope
(see also free solo).
(d) Solo klettern, (f) Soloer, (e) Escalar
en solitario
Sport climbing
Climbing routes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty
while protection
oneself by clipping copiously numbered and
generously spaced preplaced
free protection.
(d)Sportklettern, (f) Escalade sportive, (nl)
Sportklimmen, (i) Arrempicata
sportiva, (e) Escalada deportiva (s) Sportklättring,
(pl)
Wspinaczka
sportowa
Stem, to
Bridging with the feet between two holds.
(d) Stemmen, (f) Se mettre en opposition,
(i) Opposizione, (e) Oposición,
(s) Stämma / Sprajsa
"Stick it"
American slang meaning "hold on" or "go for
it".
(f) "Allez !", (e) "Asegura"
Sticht plate
A belay device consisting of a plate with
two slots in it. An original
creation by Franz Sticht.
(d) Sticht Bremse, (f) Plaquette d'assurance,
(f-c) Plaque-frein, (i)
Piastrina sticht, (e) Placa Sticht, (s) Stichtbroms
Summit
The top of a mountain or rock.
(d) Gipfel, (f) Sommet, (nl) Top, (i) Cima,
(e) Cima / cumbre, (s) Topp,
(pl) Szczyt
Summit, to
To reach the summit.
(d) Gipfeln, (e) Encumbrar
"Take"
American monosyllable for "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein" / "Zu", (e) "Recupera", (pl)
"Wybierz"
"Take in"
The British equivalent of "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein"/("Zieh an"), (f) "Avale", (i)
Recupera, (s) "Tag hem", (pl)
"Wybierz"
"Taking in"
Heard often in British crags, meaning the
climber is "off belay" and about
to pull up the slack between him and the belayer.
(f) "J'avale"
Talus
Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of
scree.
Tarn
A small lake.
10essentials
That part of your climbing gear you don't
want to leave at home.
"That's me"
Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtousy call
to the belayer to indicate that
the slack in the rope is all taken up and
that further pulling is pointless.
(d) "Seil aus", (f) "En bout"/"Bout de corde"
"Tight"
The British equivalent of "Up rope" ???
(f) "Sec", (f-c) "a sec", (e) "Tensa"
Toe
The bottom of a buttress.
Topo
A short drawing of the route. Good topos will
allow you to spot the line
right away, show the placement of bolts and
belay stances, indicate where
the crux is and what rating it has.
(f) Topo, (e) Topo
Top-rope
Free climbing a route that has the safety
rope attached to the top of the
climb (usually one walks to the top to set
up the top-rope belay).
(d) Toprope / Seil von oben, (f) Moulinette,
(nl) Toprope, (i) Corda
dall'alto, (e) Yoyo, (s) Topprep, (pl) Wedka
Threaded overhand
Solid but not failproof knot also known as
water knot (or ring bend when
used on webbing).
(d) Sackstich in Ringform, (e) Nudo encontrado
Trad
Traditional climbing, characterized by the
placing of protection (cams, nuts,
etc.) in cracks and pockets. Trad also includes
multi-pitch routes often
with long runouts..
(d) Traditionelles, Alpines Klettern, (f)
Classique, (nl) Alpijns klimmen, (i)
Tradizionale, (e) Escalada tradicional /clásica
Trad fall
A fall during a trad climb, sometimes accompanied
by the popping sound
of protection succumbing to the temptations
of gravity. See also 'crater'
and 'screamer'.
(f) Devissage
Traverse
Horizontal climb.
(d) Quergang, (f) Traversée, (nl) Traverse,
(i) Traverso, (e)
Travesiacute;a, (s) Travers, (pl) Trawers
Trucker
Synomym for 'Bomber'. A trustworthy piece
of pro.
Tunnel
A tunnel through or hourglass shape in the
rock that allows a runner or
cord to be fed through for protection.
(d) Sanduhr, (f) Lunulle, (i) Clessidra, (nl)
Zandloper, (e) Túnel
Undercling
A hold that would be a perfect bucket if gravity
were upside down. As it
is, underclings are usually awkward holds
that require lieback type moves.
(d) Untergriff, (f) Inversée, (nl)
Ondergreep, (i) Presa rovescia, (e)
Undercling, (e-argentina) Toma invertida,
(pl) podchwyt
"Up Rope"
Yelled by the leader or the follower when
she/he wants a tighter belay. (In
UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch me").
(d) "Seil ein", (f) "Sec" / "Avale", (nl)
"Blok", (i) "Recupera", (e) "Tensa",
(s) "Tag hem"
Verglas
Thin water ice on rock.
(f) Verglas
"Watch me"
Call to indicate the climber is about to do
something stupid -- like fall.
(d) "Pass auf", (f) "Fais gaffe", (nl) "Let
op", (i)"Occhio" / "Guardami
bene" / "Tiemmi tirato", (e) "Cuídame",
(s) "Beredd?", (pl)
Water ice
Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water
ice is clear and brittle and
contains few air bubbles. Sometimes water
is even flowing around the ice.
Can be found in the couloirs of the High Sierra
in autumn (and in many
other places).
Water knot
See tape knot.
(d) Bandschlingenknoten, (e) Nudo encontrado,
(s) Vattenknop
Webbing (tubular)
Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow
in the inside.
(d) Schlauchband , (f) Sangle (tubulaire),
(nl) Schlinges, (i) Fetuccia
tubolare, (e) Cinta tubular, (s) Tubband
Webbing (loop of)
A runner made of webbing.
(d) Bandschlinge, (f) Sangle (anneau de),
(i) Anello di cordin / Anello di
fettucia, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga
Whipper
A very long fall.
White ice
Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms from
melted-and-frozen snow. Good
climbing stuff.
Woodie
A homemade climbing wall.
(f) Pan
Yabo
As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start' ????????
(I need some help on this one)
YDS
Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American
rating system.
Zipper
A fall where the protection pulls out one
after the other as the leader
succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a grounder
(or a cardiac arrest).
(d) Rei&germandbls;verschlu&germandbls;sturz
Z-Pulley System
Complicated rope setup that allows you to
hoist heavy weights with
relatively little force. Excellent for recueing
or hauling bags.
(d) Flaschenzug, (f) Palan